Derelict, Art Deco, Multicultural, Gigantism - Keywords from a tour through Hillbrow

A few days ago I went on a guided tour downtown Joburg in the areas of Hillbrow and Berea. Now, you might think "guided tour, really?" And yes, it felt strange. A group of 30 white people, in which 27 of them  were in their 70's and dressed in khakis (my friends and I being the only ones under retirement age) walking through the roughest neighborhood of downtown Joburg taking photos with their expensive cameras. Indeed very very strange.

4 guards joined the guided tour
 to keep the khaki-bunch safe

These areas were originally the most posh parts of Joburg where only the richest of the white people lived. Hillbrow is situated, as the name says, on a hill with a nice view of the rand of the gold mines -the steroid on which this African metropole has been build. In Hillbrow one can find typical Art Deco houses side by side with gigantic living-machines, the 54 stories high Ponte tower and the once so fashionable "see and be seen" place Windybrow theatre, once home of Theodore Reunert a romantic Bavarian-styled mansion which is now part of a theatre complex.

Windybrow theatre

I chatted to one of the elderly ladies in our group who told me that she actually grew up in Hillbrow. Today, that seems almost to strange to be true. Hillbrow version 2011 is far from the Mayfair like (that's the expression the guide used) 'whites only' area it used to be. Due to poor planning, its infrastructure could not cope with the rapid population growth. This, together with lack of investment led to an exodus of middle class residents in the 1980s and the decay of major buildings, leaving in its wake an urban slum by the 1990s. Today most of the residents are immigrants from different parts of Africa. One of my South African friends told me that "you won't see a South African living in Hillbrow any longer". I don't know if that is all true, but one can surely feel the multi ethnic atmosphere.

Gigantism 1

 Gigantism 2: Built in 1975 to a height of 173 metres (54 floors),
the Ponte tower is the tallest residential skyscraper in the southern hemisphere.

Gigantism 3, this building is called Highrise

Curious kids in Hillbrow

There is actual a lot of public art in Hillbrow.
This piece is symbolizing a waterfall that was once at this spot

Respect the weather

Thunderstorm in Joburg

The dark grey clouds are gathering up and pushing the boiling sun away. One of Jozi's infamous thunderstorms is on it's way, and I'm as excited as a child on Christmas Eve. I love the thunderstorms and the exceptional atmosphere they leave behind. I'm kind of used to this phenomenon by now though, and I'm not really scared of getting struck by lightning (180 cm tall, I guess I'm an easy target)... However, reading about the tsunami in Japan today, and the one likely to reach Honolulu in 45 minutes makes me think about the forces of nature, and how powerful they are. It reminds me of the Norwegian fjellvettreglene . "Vis respekt for været og værmeldingene" applies in the big cities as well as in the mountains.

I just remembered that in November last year, after having experienced my first Jozi thunderstorm, I read in the news the next day that a man had been struck by lightning and killed 100 meters from where I live. Tragic!
I think I'll try to get a ride home from work today...

Have a good weekend everyone!

Fall in (love with) Jozi?.. a mixed feeling

Coming back from 10 days of "winter holiday" in Norway, stepping out of the airport in Joburg felt like a sauna. Still, I cannot help but feeling that fall is coming Joburg's way these days. Is definetly drier and less green than a few weeks ago, and the air is somewhat different. It might also be that I'm extremely sensitive for the sentiment of something coming to an end. Job hunting in Norway has made me very aware of the fact that my year in Jozi soon will be over. A strange feeling really.

What is it with Jozi that makes me unable to explain my relation to it/her/them? One thing is for sure, Jozi has grown on me. I believe this city needs time to reveal it's secrets and it's many good sides. And I'm not quite "there" yet that I've joined the inner circle of those who relly can call Jozi their home. However, I'm a curious and excited guest who continues to be amazed and thrilled.

I hope that this feeling will last and develop for the 85 days that I have before I leave Jozi.

Am I there yet?